Caving Safety Tips

Caving can be a very dangerous activity and every move underground should be taken seriously. When going caving, it is essential to make sure you have certain items with you so that you are prepared for any challenges you may come across:

• Helmet with a chin strap: Preferably a UIAA-approved, multiple-hit resistant helmet, like a climbing helmet.
• Three separate light sources: At least one light should be helmet-mounted. Bring backup batteries.
• Sturdy footwear: Ensure ankle protection and plenty of traction (e.g., hiking boots or Wellies for wet caves).
• Warm and durable clothing: Avoid cotton as it holds moisture and lowers body temperature. Use synthetic, silk, or polypro layers.
• Knee pads: Knee pads that cover more area are better. Elbow pads are optional.
• Gloves: Rubber-coated gloves protect from jagged rocks and mud while keeping hands warm.
• Cave pack: A durable, water-resistant backpack with minimal outer straps to avoid snagging.
• Water and snacks: Stay hydrated and fueled with high-protein, calorie-dense snacks.

When preparing for a cave trip, ensure you are prepared but not over-packed. Emergencies may leave you underground longer than expected. Here are essential items to include in your pack:

• First aid kit*
• Water*
• Snacks*
• Extra light sources*
• Backup batteries*
• Trash bag*
• Cave map (if available)*
• Plastic whistle*
• Compass
• Locking pocket knife
• Rope or sling for handline
• Carabiner(s)
• Space blanket for emergencies
• Extra gloves
• Dry socks
• Waterproof container(s)

Before going caving, always let someone responsible know where you’re going and when to expect your return. This is called the “Callout” system. Be sure to include as much detail as possible to help rescuers locate you if something goes wrong:

• What area you will be visiting.
• The name of the cave(s).
• How long you plan to be in the cave (add extra time due to lack of cell service).
• Details of the vehicle(s) you are driving and parking location.
• Names of everyone in your group.
• Whether the cave is horizontal or vertical.

Download and complete the Caver Alert Information Sheet for your surface contact to use in case of emergency.

Even though you may feel comfortable and confident that you won't get hurt while caving, you must always be prepared for anything to happen. If you are alone in a cave and get injured to the point where you cannot walk, it could cost you your life. Even after following proper call-out protocols, the time that it takes for your surface contact to realize you haven't returned could be the difference in life or death when compared to the time it takes for a member of the group to return to the surface to seek help.

Any caving group should consist of at least three people so that if there were an injury, one person can stay with the patient while the other person goes for help. An optimal caving group is five people. This way, three members can go back for help just in case there happens to be another injury while retreating to the surface.

Besides just the fact that cave exploration and survey require teamwork to reach a specific goal safely, it is also a great way to establish new friendships and get to know one another on a different level. In my opinion, there is no better way to bond with your peers than by being wedged in a muddy crevice, in a dark hole, under some rock, far from any outside help, knowing that your lives are in each other's hands.

If you have the craving to go caving but don't have anyone to go with, try reaching out to the grotto. More than likely, people will be interested in getting a group together for a trip, or at the least in scheduling a time that will work for multiple members in the near future. It never hurts to ask, and going with a group could save your life.

So you're on a caving trip and you or a member of your team becomes injured. What do you do next?

• Protect yourself first and then your teammate: Don't become another patient.
• Ensure that you can obtain access to the injured person safely: Check for unsafe conditions before entering an accident site and correct all dangerous conditions.
• Determine the extent of injuries and stabilize the patient if you have the skill: Treat for hypothermia prevention. (It's highly recommended to carry a hypothermia kit: an extra large garbage bag, candle, and lighter.)
• Determine if the person can walk/crawl out, can be assisted to walk/crawl out, or if you will need assistance to get the person out: If there is any chance of spinal injury, do not move the patient except to prevent further injury.
• If the injury is serious, use your own judgment: Begin to take notes about your patient, including date and time for all information. Pulse, respiration, and skin temperature are minimum.
• If you need outside help, send for it or wait for your surface contact to notify authorities: Remember that your surface contact can only call for backup if they know exactly which cave you are in and when to expect your return from that cave.
• Inventory all equipment in your group to determine what is available: Consider what you have to help your patient survive, to aid your survival, and determine what may be needed from the outside. Get the information to the surface.
• When possible and if needed, two people should be sent out for help: They should leave as much food, water, and dry clothing as possible for the people that remain with the patient. They should carry a copy of all notes concerning patient condition and location. Include information about your needs as well as what you have on site to treat the patient with. Your messengers need to know emergency telephone numbers, have keys to vehicles, and have the knowledge and experience to get out safely.
• Keep as calm as possible: Reassure your patient. Cave rescues can take a lot of time, so be prepared mentally.

We all know that caving is a physically taxing activity and requires incredible amounts of energy, especially for all-day excursions. Bringing proper equipment such as at least three sources of light, plenty of water, extra batteries, gloves, a safety blanket, etc., can make all the difference, especially in an emergency or when a friend forgets something. Proper nutrition is especially important while caving because you use sugars and stored fats more quickly.

Over the 40+ years I have been caving, it has become clear that certain foods and treats give me the boost of energy needed to master a long crawl out or climb up a rope. We all have our own basic caloric needs, dietary restrictions, and preferences. When planning for a caving trip, think about how much sleep you had the night before and what you last ate. Preparing your cave pack to ensure maximum comfort is key to a successful trip.

Think about how many hours you will be in the cave and what type of trip is expected. You may need more calories if the trip is long, involves stream crawling, or multiple climbs using ropes, cable ladders, and handlines.

Consider basic dietary guidelines and what you are used to eating when preparing your nutrition for a cave trip. Avoid any foods that you may be allergic to or that may cause digestive distress. It is best to bring extra food in case the trip lasts longer than expected. Simple, ready-to-eat foods such as granola bars, nuts, dried fruit, and small amounts of chocolate are good options to start with, but remember how your body reacts to those foods. Keep in mind there are plenty of healthy options, especially if you plan ahead. Here is a list of caving foods that have worked well for me over the years:

• GORP (good old raisins and peanuts)
• Dried fruit such as apricots, apples, and banana chips
• Granola bars and other ready-to-eat bars with high protein to keep you energized and full longer
• Sandwiches (e.g., peanut butter and jelly, lunch meat, veggie subs, or bagels with your favorite topping), double-wrapped or in a water-resistant container to keep fresh
• Canned or foil pouches of tuna, salmon, or chicken with a small plastic spoon
• Ready-to-eat crackers or pretzel sticks with cheese dip or peanut butter
• Hummus and veggie sticks (include hand wipes in your pack)
• Baked potato with cheese and/or bacon
• Homemade protein and seed bars (recipe below)
• Beef, chicken, or turkey jerky

No-Bake Protein Balls:

Ingredients:

• 1 cup natural peanut butter or other nut butter
• 1/3 cup vanilla plant-based protein powder
• 1/2 cup rolled oats
• 1 tablespoon chia seeds
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 1/4 cup mini chocolate chips
• 1 to 4 teaspoons of water

Instructions: Place all ingredients into a large bowl. Use a wooden spoon to mix together until a thick dough forms. Use a tablespoon to scoop out the dough into your hands and roll into balls. Place balls on a parchment-lined dish and store in the refrigerator. Alternatively, press the dough into a 9x11 baking pan lined with parchment paper, chill for two hours, and then cut into pieces.

If the dough is too dry, add more nut butter and/or honey to taste. Dried cranberries, raisins, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, chopped almonds, or crushed pistachio nuts can be added for variety. For those with a sweet tooth, drizzle melted chocolate on top!

When it comes to safety gear, certain items have an expiration date while others may not, but they still need to be replaced when damaged or worn. Be sure to regularly check these items very carefully (at least before each use) and retire them immediately if damaged or expired. With caving gear, these lifespans can vary depending on the frequency of usage and each individual situation. Maintaining and cleaning your gear between trips can significantly extend the lifespan of your gear.

• Helmets: Your helmet should be replaced immediately after any serious impact. Major dents, cracks, loose padding, frayed straps, and damaged buckles are all signs to retire and replace your helmet. Even with no visible damage, climbing helmets are only good for 10 years after the manufacture date (stamped on the inside).
• Harnesses: If your harness shows signs of excessive wear, such as tears, frays, discoloration from UV damage, or broken buckles, it should be replaced immediately. Even if rarely used and properly stored, replace your harness after 7 years.
• Ropes: Your rope should be retired immediately after any substantial impact from a fall or if it shows damage such as cuts, frayed threads, or an exposed core. Ropes should be retired after 1-3 years if used frequently, 5-7 years with less use, and after 10 years even if never used. Keep a rope log to record the date of purchase, usage, and any falls.
• Slings or Webbing: Retire immediately if ripped, burned, stiff, frayed, or faded. Rarely used webbing can last up to 10 years but depends on usage and cleanliness.
• Ascending/Descending Gear: Inspect for cracks and excessive wear. All moving parts should function smoothly. Check ascender teeth as they wear down over time. Retire racks, bobbins, and other descending devices if they become discolored or excessively worn.
• Carabiners: Retire immediately if dropped from a significant height, cracked, excessively worn, or with a faulty gate.

Some climbing gyms or outdoor stores will recycle certain gear, so ask around before discarding old items. Certain gear can also be repurposed for non-caving uses or even turned into art!

I know it might feel cool sometimes to have muddy clothes and gear, like showing off the battle scars of the caving trip you just came from, but there are a few reasons why it’s important to clean your gear as thoroughly as possible after each trip underground:

• WNS (White Nose Syndrome): White Nose Syndrome is a fungal infection that has caused a rapid decrease in bat populations since 2006. WNS is spread via bat-to-bat or bat-to-environment, but researchers believe that humans can carry these fungal spores on their clothing and gear, spreading the fungus from one cave to another. Although this is not a guaranteed cause of the spread, cleaning your gear just in case can help minimize potential risks.
• Calcium Crystals: Cave mud contains microscopic crystalline particles from dissolved minerals. These crystals can work their way into the fibers of your gear, slowly degrading and wearing away the materials, which significantly shortens their lifespan. Cleaning ropes and vertical gear thoroughly is especially critical, as your life depends on their integrity.
• Inspection of Gear: Cleaning your gear provides the perfect opportunity to visually inspect each item for wear and tear. Regular inspections ensure your equipment remains safe to use.
• Stay Looking Good: Let’s face it, a clean and colorful cave suit just looks better. Plus, you’ll avoid tracking mud and dirt through your vehicle and home.

Always be sure to bring water with you on any caving trip or outdoor adventure, no matter how quick or easy you think the trip will be. It is very important to stay hydrated at all times, especially when doing physical activities and exerting your energy. Drink plenty of water before your trip and try to remember to stop and take breaks to rehydrate often while underground. Because of a cave's cool and dark environment, it is easy to forget to drink as much water as you should.

Every person varies, but the average human should drink at least half of their body weight in ounces each day. (So, if you weigh 160 lbs, you should be drinking 80 ounces of water per day.) When trying to plan how much water to bring with you, remember to consider how physical an activity like caving is and how much you will be sweating.

Signs of dehydration:

• Dark-colored urine
• Dizziness or light-headedness
• Headache
• Tiredness
• Dry mouth, lips, and eyes
• Irritability
• Dry skin
• Muscle cramps
• Unable to keep fluids down
• Less frequent or lack of urine
• Signs and symptoms of shock

Even with a water filter used for hiking, do not drink cave water unless you absolutely have to in order to stay alive, as it could be very unsafe. (We will touch on this topic at another time.)

Caves can be very dangerous for many different reasons. Some of these dangers can be avoided or prepared for, but sometimes things happen that are out of our control. In such cases, the best thing you can do is warn the others in your group of the hazard at hand. One of the many dangers found in caving is the risk of falling objects. Your helmet (which you should have on during every cave trip) may not always protect you from falling objects, but it will definitely help save your life in the right circumstances. As a bystander in a situation where there is a falling object or other overhead hazard, the best thing you can do is shout, "ROCK" to the other members of your group.

In the caving world, the term "ROCK" is a universal word used as a warning, no matter what may actually be falling. Whether you are coming down a slope or a climb with people below you and accidentally knock dirt and pebbles loose, drop a carabiner or other tool while doing vertical work, or any other overhead hazard becomes apparent, shouting "ROCK" avoids confusion and saves time by replacing longer warnings.

If you ever hear another member of your group shouting "ROCK," do NOT look up. If immediate shelter isn’t available, the best thing to do is stand as straight and narrow as possible, keeping your arms down to your sides. This way, the chances of the falling object missing you—or hitting your helmet rather than an unprotected part of your body—become much higher. Always move with caution, especially when others are below you.

Nobody knows you better than yourself. When caving with a group of people, remember that each and every one of us is different. Just because the person in front of you can squeeze through a long, tight crawl, it doesn't mean you have to. Most of the caves we encounter do not necessarily require you to fit into every tight crevice or long crawl just to see the "pretties." Even if they do, no pretty sights or virgin passages are worth your safety or the safety of the people around you.

Do not feel ashamed if you have to sit out of a side passage, a crawl, or a climb during a caving expedition because you need to catch your breath or because you don't feel physically capable of the challenges ahead. Caving is a very dangerous hobby and should be taken very seriously at all times.

Trust your gut. A cave rescue entails a whole lot of effort and resources from volunteers in the area and also puts others in danger.

Another one of the many dangers of cave exploration is the chance of coming across bad air in a cave. "Bad air" or "foul air" occurs mostly from a buildup of carbon dioxide (> 0.5% CO2) or the lack of oxygen in a cave (< 18% O2). These conditions are not completely common in all areas but seem to be more prevalent in vertical caves rather than horizontal caves. They can be caused by a few different reasons:

• Little or no airflow throughout the cave
• Surface runoff containing detritus (waste or decomposed debris)
• Dead/decomposing animals in the cave or pit
• Excess amounts of animal feces in a certain area
• Passageway on the other side of a sump that becomes blocked off from rising water levels

CO2 is an odorless, colorless gas that you cannot see with the naked eye, so you must be aware of any warning signs and turn back immediately if you experience any of the symptoms below:

Warning signs/symptoms of bad air:

• Loss of breath or abnormally heavy breathing
• Dizziness or confusion
• Headache
• Loss of consciousness
• Death

Certain companies make O2 monitors and CO2 detectors that can fit in your pack during a cave trip, but they can be a bit expensive. A lighter or pack of matches is a cheap and easy way to check air quality. If your flame is very dim or won't light at all, you know it is time to turn back.

You may not think of hypothermia often while caving because we are usually in constant motion, and if you're like me, you're probably sweating most of the time you are underground. It is only once we take a break and the sweat cools down that we realize just how cold it is in the cave. Caves in our region have a constant temperature around 54 degrees Fahrenheit, and even though that may not seem very cold, the possibility of getting hypothermia while caving is not too far off.

Hypothermia while caving can be caused by several factors:

• Cold Environment: Caves often have low temperatures and high humidity, which can quickly lower body temperature.
• Wet Conditions: Water from dripping or flowing sources and water-filled passages can soak clothing, increasing heat loss.
• Wind Chill: Air movement within caves can amplify the cooling effect, especially if you're in wet gear.
• Prolonged Exposure: Extended time in the cold without proper insulation.
• Inadequate Clothing: Wearing insufficient or inappropriate clothing, such as cotton, which retains moisture, can increase vulnerability.
• Fatigue: Physical exertion can lead to sweating, which can cool the body when combined with cold air or water.
• Injury or Illness: Conditions that limit movement or generate less body heat can increase the risk.
• Improper Planning: Lack of knowledge about cave conditions and weather can lead to being unprepared for cold temperatures.

Symptoms of hypothermia:

• Shivering
• Cold to the touch
• Pale skin
• Body stiffening with rigid muscles*
• Unresponsiveness*
• Disorientation or confusion*
• Glassy stare*
• Slowing of or no heart rate*
• Slowing of or no breathing*
• Loss of ability to shiver as conditions worsen*

(Symptoms marked with * require immediate medical attention.)

To prevent hypothermia while caving, always wear appropriate layers, including moisture-wicking base layers, insulating mid-layers, and waterproof outer layers. Stay dry, avoid prolonged exposure to cold, and ensure you have adequate food and water to maintain energy levels. If you start to feel cold or wet, keep your blood flowing and use extra gear, like space blankets or heat packs, if available. Even a spare trash bag can help to maintain your body temperature in a time of need.

Vertical caving adds a whole new aspect of danger to cave exploration and should be learned and practiced before attempting to descend or ascend in a caving environment. Most climbing and caving equipment has been tested and certified by the UIAA, CE, or EN to ensure that the equipment can withstand an impact force of at least 12 kN and last in a variety of conditions. The gear listed below is required and recommended for most vertical caving situations you will come across:

• Helmet: A climbing helmet designed to absorb impacts, with a suspension system and chin strap. This is your most important piece of equipment when caving of any kind, besides your light source.
• Harness: Caving harnesses differ from climbing harnesses. They have a lower attachment point with two separate loops joined with a D-ring or center connector, extra abrasion reinforcement in areas of wear, and lack the padding that climbing harnesses offer. Your caving harness should fit well without restricting movement or circulation.
• Chest Harness: Used with many ascending systems, chest harnesses should be adjustable for tightening during climbs and loosening between ascents. They are not designed as a primary attachment point to the rope.
• Connectors: Common connectors in caving include carabiners and maillons. Locking carabiners have a sleeve for extra security, while non-locking carabiners are used for quick attachment. Central connectors, such as half-moon screwgate connectors, serve as attachment points for vertical equipment.
• Ascenders: Ascenders come in various designs (handled, non-handled, or Gibbs-style). Choose ascenders compatible with your rope. They must be securely attached with carabiners or maillons to prevent damage to the rope.
• Descenders: Racks and micro-racks are common for controlled descents. Bobbins are smaller and lighter but not recommended for long descents (greater than 100 meters).
• Cowstails: Dynamic rope tethers used for safety. Typically, two cowstails (one short, one long) are tied with an overhand or butterfly knot, equipped with carabiners for various purposes.
• Footloops: Made of static cord or webbing, footloops improve climbing efficiency by converting stepping motions into vertical progress.
• Chickenloop: A strap or webbing piece that prevents your foot from slipping out of the footloop.
• Chest Rollers: Heavy and bulky, chest rollers keep climbers upright in Mitchell and Ropewalker systems.
• Emergency Ascender: A small extra ascender is useful for unexpected situations, like overcoming difficult lips or as a backup.
• Pulley: Useful for hoisting in certain climbing or rescue scenarios.

When purchasing climbing equipment, ensure it is suitable for caving and tested for safety. Buy from reputable companies such as Black Diamond, Petzl, PMI, Kong, or On Rope 1. Avoid used equipment or second-party sellers to prevent counterfeit risks and ensure authenticity.

When using carabiners, maillons, and D-rings, there are quite a few safety factors you need to know and think about before each use. You should know the different types of connectors and their intended use (see last month's Safety Tip). All connectors should be tested and rated by trusted organizations and have their appropriate CE rating stamped on the side (12 kN minimum). Hardware store versions of these connectors are NOT rated for climbing. Even though you may see trusted name brands on websites like Amazon, this gear is usually a cheaper version than if you were to buy straight from a reputable source. Before leaving for any caving trip, connectors should be thoroughly inspected for wear, cracks, and smoothly moving parts. Any connectors that have been dropped from a substantial height or show any signs of wear or damage should be retired immediately.

There are a few important things to consider when using carabiners. They are designed to be loaded along their long axis because any force on the carabiner gate can cause them to open unintentionally. To prevent this from happening, you can:

• Use two carabiners facing in opposite directions, so that any applied force can only affect the gate of one carabiner at a time.
• Use an ANSI-rated carabiner that is designed to resist this force.
• Use a maillon, which can be locked more securely.

While standard carabiners are large enough to be used as a central connector, they should not be used for this purpose because they are not designed to be loaded in multiple directions like a half-moon or D-ring is. No matter the type of central connector you prefer to use on your harness, ensure that it is oriented so that the gate opening is to the caver's left. While ascending, the rope may rub against the screw gate, and the friction could cause the screw gate to unlock or open if the opening is on the caver's right.

Be sure to double-check all of your connectors before each ascent or descent to make sure that they are locked and secured. I keep a small adjustable wrench with me so I can make sure my maillons are fully locked and that I will be able to open them if necessary.

There are many different ways to climb a rope, but there are only a few systems that are recommended in caving for the safest and most efficient ascent. Everybody has their own preferences when it comes to ascending methods, so try a few different ways and see what works best for you.

Frog: The frog system is one of the more basic methods of ascending seen in caving, using a sit-and-stand technique that almost resembles the motions a frog makes when swimming. It involves using an upper (hand) ascender with an attached footloop, connected to your long cowstail or a dedicated tether. The rope runs down through your hand ascender and into a chest ascender that is attached between your chest harness and seat harness. An optional foot ascender can be added into the mix to help with your climb.

Texas: This system is similar to the Frog method but recommended for taller individuals who aren't carrying heavy loads. It can be converted to Frog if necessary for certain circumstances. The Texas method uses an upper ascender tethered to your central connector (D-ring), a lower ascender with a footloop tethered separately to your D-ring, an extra tether or cowstail, and an optional foot ascender.

Mitchell: This is a standing method of ascending recommended for top-heavy individuals or someone with less upper body strength, as most of the effort comes from your legs. The Mitchell system uses a double chest roller assembly attached to your chest harness to hold the climber upright. Your upper ascender is tethered to your D-ring with a footloop that passes through a chest roller. Your lower ascender is tethered to your D-ring and another footloop (and recommended chicken loop). Your D-ring should also have an extra cowstail. The rope is fed down through your upper ascender, through the unused chest roller, then down through the lower ascender. This method requires experience and uses both hands to move ascenders, which may make certain maneuvers difficult. It can also be converted to Frog if necessary.

Ropewalker: The Ropewalker is another standing method of ascending which uses less effort than the other systems. In this system, your upper ascender is tethered to your D-ring with a long cowstail. On one leg, you have an ascender floating at the knee tethered to the D-ring with a footloop (and recommended chicken loop). Your other leg has an ascender attached above a footloop. A bungee is attached from the chest box to each lower ascender to help pull the ascenders upwards as you climb. Your D-ring should also have an extra cowstail. The rope is fed down through your upper ascender, through the chest roller, into the lower ascender at your knee, then through the other lower ascender just above your other foot. The Ropewalker is bulky and heavy because of the extra equipment it requires and is difficult to use on rope ascents that are not vertical.

There are other systems and methods used to climb a rope, but remember that caving rope is stiffer and is usually wet or muddy, making other ascending options dangerous or impractical. Practice ascending before taking it to the caves.

One of the first rules of caving is to never go caving alone, and this rule is especially true when doing any vertical work in a cave. Since caving can be such a dangerous activity, especially on rope, we must rely on each other to ensure that no mistakes are made. Whether you have been caving your whole life and have countless hours of experience or you have only been caving a handful of times and are just beginning to learn the different methods and techniques of vertical caving, you must always be sure to check and double-check your gear and then have another person in your group check your gear again for you before doing any descents or climbs.

It is easy to get used to going through the motions and to be eager to get on rope, but taking just a few extra minutes to look over your gear and the gear of the other members of your group could be the difference between life and death. You might notice something the other caver overlooked or was too distracted or comfortable to notice, and vice versa.

Before getting on rope, first be sure that you and your fellow cavers are still wearing their appropriate gear. Sometimes we like to remove our gloves and other gear or loosen our kneepads to get comfortable while waiting for the rope to be set up and rigged properly, so it is very important to make sure that all of your gear is accounted for and worn properly. Some of the main things to check for when looking over your gear and performing a buddy check are:

• Helmet: Make sure helmet chin straps are secured and free of any twists.
• Harness: Be sure there are no twists, frays, or rips in any of the straps or material. Make sure straps are pulled tight and doubled back through their buckles.
• Connectors: Check that all connectors and carabiners are closed, set in the locked position, and facing the correct direction to avoid accidental opening.
• Ascenders: Check ascender teeth and ensure that all attached connectors are locked and straps are pulled tight. Make sure the rope is fed through each device correctly and will not cause any snags or inconveniences. Depending on the ascending method used, the gear to be checked may vary.
• Descenders: Ensure that connectors are locked and descenders are facing the correct direction. Check that the rope is fed correctly through the device so that there will not be any risk of tangles or snags. Be sure that racks are not "suicide rigged."

Some of this may seem very repetitive, but with caving, repetition is the key to a safe trip.